Miter Gauge and Tuning

Straightedge clamp, backed-up with a bit of plywood to make sure it really stays straight as I use a 1" bit to cut the miter gauge slot. The plunge base let me set the depth for each pass very well.

Masonite is very dusty. And it's a very fine dust. Watch out for your lungs.

<cough cough> It took four passes.

There, now you can see it. Another reason for two layers, since that goes pretty deep.

Slipped a little. :-(

This track is designed so that one edge always is straight, while the other can be tightened by a few thou based on how tight the screws are. But I didn't notice much movement.

A Vix bit is a good idea for pre-drilling the holes. If you don't drill perfectly centered, the heads can stick up and interfere with the miter gauge.

Ugh. Sears miter gauge. I quickly wised up.

Starting to look penultimate....

Medicine for the Miter Slot.

Packaging is nice enough. But Incra assembles their packages from kits, so everything has a seperate parts list. It's some task to make sure you've got everything.

But fortunately, Incra is generous with parts.

MUCH better.

Leftover parts. Actually, parts for a T-slot on a tablesaw, and for mounting a sacrificial fence to the Miter gauge. The Incra Jig came with similar extras.

The Router Lift comes with its own fence that also may be useful. The guide Pin (white thing) isn't mentioned in the manual, but it's included too.

I wish I had thought to check this earlier, like, when I was mounting the router to the lift plate. Take a centering pin (1/4") and a template guide with a 1/4" inside diameter to make sure the router and the cutout are coaxial. I'm within a couple thou, by sheer luck. I could re-mount the router if I had to. The screw holes for the baseplate go all the way through the 690 fixed base, and I could have centerpunched them for precise alignment. I don't know how you can do it with other routers.

The centering pin is good to check for square. It is.

The fence needed shimming to be square to the table.

The miter gauge needed some shimming too. Easy to do. I don't know why that one guy complained.

Step 1: The Tabletop

Step 2: The Frame

Step 3: Legs and Surface

Step 4: Miter Gauge and Tuning

Step 5: Drawers 1

Step 6: Drawers 2

Step 7: Finishing Touches

Back to the Workshop, Mavica, Me, or Main.

	Straightedge clamp, backed-up with a bit of plywood to make sure it really stays straight as I use a 1" bit to cut the miter gauge slot. The plunge base let me set the depth for each pass very well.
	Masonite is very dusty. And it's a very fine dust. Watch out for your lungs.
	<cough cough> It took four passes.
	There, now you can see it. Another reason for two layers, since that goes pretty deep.
	Slipped a little. :-( This track is designed so that one edge always is straight, while the other can be tightened by a few thou based on how tight the screws are. But I didn't notice much movement. A Vix bit is a good idea for pre-drilling the holes. If you don't drill perfectly centered, the heads can stick up and interfere with the miter gauge.
	Ugh. Sears miter gauge. I quickly wised up.
	Starting to look penultimate....
	Medicine for the Miter Slot.
	Packaging is nice enough. But Incra assembles their packages from kits, so everything has a seperate parts list. It's some task to make sure you've got everything.
	But fortunately, Incra is generous with parts.
	MUCH better.
	Leftover parts. Actually, parts for a T-slot on a tablesaw, and for mounting a sacrificial fence to the Miter gauge. The Incra Jig came with similar extras.
	The Router Lift comes with its own fence that also may be useful. The guide Pin (white thing) isn't mentioned in the manual, but it's included too.
	I wish I had thought to check this earlier, like, when I was mounting the router to the lift plate. Take a centering pin (1/4") and a template guide with a 1/4" inside diameter to make sure the router and the cutout are coaxial. I'm within a couple thou, by sheer luck. I could re-mount the router if I had to. The screw holes for the baseplate go all the way through the 690 fixed base, and I could have centerpunched them for precise alignment. I don't know how you can do it with other routers.
	The centering pin is good to check for square. It is.
	The fence needed shimming to be square to the table.
	The miter gauge needed some shimming too. Easy to do. I don't know why that one guy complained.